Burda Magazine 3/2009 #131: Short Sleeved Linen Shirt

Project Detail:

Pattern: Burda Magazine 3/2009 #131

Pattern Size: 34-36-38-40. I cut a 38.

Description: Short sleeved button down men's shirt.  The design features rolled sleeves with tab, convertible collar, and contrasting bias binding up center front.

Did it look like the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it?  The original pattern incorporated epauletts, a "gun flap," front pocket, and back darts; all of which I eliminated.  More information below.

Fabric: Khaki Cotton/Linen Blend

Where the instructions easy to follow? I didn't need to follow the directions.  It was basic shirt construction.  However, I did use Gigi's tutorial for a convertible collar all by machine., which I definitely recommend.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I like that it is a nice basic shirt pattern that can be changed and altered for fit and style.  All men's button down shirts are similar, each incorporating it's own differentiated stylized details.  This basic pattern is a good starting point.

Pattern alterations or design changes you made:

• I added a center back seam with approx. 1" swayback adjustment.
• As humorous as this is, I found that a SBA helped the fit of the front.  I took out 1/2" at the apex, tapering to nothing at shoulder seam, arscye seam, and hem.
• I redrafted the sleeve cap, removing some ease.
• Instead of using the collar/collar stand pattern, I drafted and used a convertible collar pattern.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes

HAPPY MOTHER'S DAY EVERYONE!

Winter Coat 2010: Progress

I've made progress over the past two weeks.  Boy, I didn't realize how much hand work went into a tailored garment.  I didn't think I would enjoy all of the hand sewing but I actually find it quite relaxing.  How geeky does that sound! haha  But, I turned on music and sewed away.

These first three pictures show the point my coat was at this morning.  I have been working all day sewing, and never even turned the sewing machine on, haha. This is a new world to me!  I love the back of the coat.  It is so tailored and military-esque, and the box pleats are extremely flattering.

I sewed two single welt pockets, one of either side on the double breast front panels, and a flap for each.

I'm proud of the flaps because I was able to utilize the turn of cloth so no seams are showing on the edges.

Initially I was unsure how I wanted the pockets but I think this treatment works functionally and aesthetically.  Oh, this was the first time I had ever sewed a welt pocket.

This link from the Fashion Incubator Blog was amazing and helped tremendously.  My welts look great, even though it was my first time.

I worked all day hand sewing; basting the hair canvas to the front panels, and pad stitching the lapels, well one lapel.  Pad stitching really is like working magic.  The lapel folds perfectly now! I can't wait to see it finished!  Here is a picture of the one lapel I was able to finish the pad stitching on today.  This picture was taking right after steaming, and my iron spit out a little extra water.



This week my plan is to finish pad stitching, set in both sleeves, and at least begin hemming the coat.  I'm running out of time and getting a little nervous.  I only have three weeks left until my NYC trip!

Loathing...

I       LOATHE       SILK HABOTAI!

I remember writing about the silk being very thin and fragile in my last post, however, at that point, I had yet to wage a war against it.  Being a man, and sewing mens clothing, I do not have much any experience sewing silk.  I tried to interface, which only creased the silk onto the interfacing.  I tried to cut the silk out first, but by the time I carefully picked it up off the cutting mat and placed it on the ironing board it had already distorted out of shape.  After an inward debate, I decided to order a leopard print silk charmeuse for the lining.  I just hope I can wrangle the charmeuse and make it work.

Operation Winter Coat 2010: Muslin

I have completed the muslin of my winter coat.  The picture looks odd because I used up a small stash of flannel I was hoarding.

I decided to use the costume coat pattern, Simplicity 0806, with design and size alterations.  I expanded the waist measurement, leaving enough ease to compensate for the wool fashion fabric and lambs wool interlining.  I also drafted a new front vertical band and collar pattern.  I like the way the front band gives a distinct vertical line to the coat, hopefully elongating my body, although it will be the same fabric as the rest of the coat in the final coat.

One thing I love about this pattern are the box pleats on the back "skirt."

I received my fabric today in the mail.  I'm using a navy blue wool/cashmere, from fashionfabricsclub.com, for the outer fabric and a silk leopard print habotai, found on ebay, for the lining.  I'm also interlining the coat with lambs wool.

I'm realizing now that silk habotai may have not been the best pick for the lining.  It is extremely thin and fragile.  At this point, I'm not willing to invest in more fabric, plus I don't have the time to wait for the shipment before my NYC trip.  I'm going to try interfacing the silk with a lightweight interfacing.  I'm also underlining the silk with the interlining.  Time for experimentation.

I took the muslin apart tonight to use as the pattern.  Tomorrow I plan on taking the wool to the dry cleaner to have it steam ironed.

This week I will cut out all pattern pieces and have everything ready to begin.  I can't wait to start the tailoring process...I'm so excited!  What a nerd! haha

Do you know how a raven is like a writing desk?

Simplicity 0806

Happy Halloween!  I had such a great time sewing this costume and wearing it!  I made the jacket and vest, and shortened a pair of pants.  The rest of the costume was purchased.  Doesn't the make-up look amazing!  Thanks to my friend Laura!

Wow...I can't believe I haven't blogged since August.  I've started my new job and it has taken me a while to adjust to the demands, but I'm back now better than ever!

Remember this?  This is the finished Burda shirt I was working on last time I blogged.  It's hard to see the details in the picture.  It has matching blue buttons on the front placket and sleeve tabs, and gold buttons on the gun flap and epaulets.  I did a couple fitting changes and I think it worked out perfectly.

What's up next?  I'm in the planning and muslin stages of a winter coat. I'm going on a very anticipated vacation to NYC the week of Christmas, and since it's going to be freezing, I've decided to make a warm, winter coat.  Gertie, at www.blogforbettersewing.com, is a constant inspiration and has motivated me to tackle this big, quite overwhelming project.  I've decided to use the same pattern I used for the costume, but make some many fitting and design changes.  I'll post pictures of the muslin this week for suggestions.  Let me know what you think!

A little frogging this way...

I have been working on the "Waves of Leaves Shawl" and it is giving me a run for my money!  It's unfortunate, but my attention span can't keep constant count, and I keep losing my place.  OMG, imagine what I will be like in 50 years...that's an interesting ponder.  Anyways, I decided to frog back a couple of rows in order to fix my mistakes.  It was quite a dramatic event.  Doesn't it look like it could attack at any moment?

On another note, I did get a chance to add the second sleeve to my shirt.  Hopefully I will have time to finish it this week!

Marathon Sewing

After a FULL day of marathon sewing I actually have something to show!  Oh...you didn't know I only had one arm! ;-)

I'm especially proud of my collar and stand.  I own and have read David Page Coffin's book Shirtmaking, and I use his method of applying the collar and stand to the bodice.  However, his methods for easing the under collar and stand to the outer parts don't seem to give me a desired outcome.  On a side note, the lack in desirability is on due to my less than perfect sewing ability, not Coffin's techniques and book which are both amazing.

 

I learned a new technique where I shorten both bottom ends of the undercollar by 1/8"1/4", but keep the collar points the same length.  I also cut the under portion of the collar stand 1/8"-1/4" shorter on both ends.  When all sewn together it creates a nice smooth surface on the undercollar and stand, and helps the collar fold.

 

My weakness is still edgestitching the collar stand when the collar is in place.  My stand edges never meet up at the same place on both sides of the collar and my stitching line on the opposite side falls on and off of the stand.  Does anyone know a way to make sure the inside and outside stand edges are meeting at the exact same place? 

 

Overall, I'm happy with the outcome.  I can't wait to finish and wear it.  It will be my first, truly wearable shirt.  Fingers crossed!